Boros Collection / Reichsbahnbunker Friedrichstraße (Berlin)
Trying to understand abstract or conceptual contemporary art can be just as perplexing as trying to understand why someone would choose to build a five-story WWII air raid shelter above ground. Thanks to art collectors Karen and Christian Boros, now you can contemplate both those things simultaneously.
In 2003 they purchased a bunker that had been deemed unsafe and unable to be modernised. The five story structure, built in 1942, had 120 rooms, ~11,000 sq ft of space and concrete walls up to 3 metres (9.8 ft) thick. It was never actually used as a civilian shelter, but after the war it was repurposed as a prison, a textile warehouse, a storage facility for bananas and the venue for extreme hardcore fetish parties. After half a century of official and unofficial use it was closed by government decree.
If I told you anything more then I would be ruining the pleasure of attending the 90-minute guided tour, during which you’ll learn all about the exhibited works, the history of the building and the four year architectural adventure the Boros’ undertook to convert the main structure into a gallery and add a 5,000 sq ft private penthouse on the roof. (Fun fact: the penthouse was used as the home of Cate Blanchett’s character in the movie Tár.) Speaking of the architecture, Karl Bonatz designed the bunker and the modern renovations were by Casper Mueller Kneer, who also designed White Cube’s Bermondsey gallery in London.
So. Much. Concrete.
These two photos show you just how much concrete had to be cut through to provide access for the penthouse and to add ventilation on the lower floors.
As for their art, the Boros’ claim to collect things that they don’t understand, which sounds more like British self-deprecation than German matter of factness. My tour took place during the fourth exhibition of their collection and though many of the works might not have been self explanatory, they weren’t wildly esoteric or confounding. Thankfully there are no overwrought wall texts with long winded artspeak. Instead, the works that warrant it will be skilfully explained by your guide — you can book in German or English — and on my visit we had the pleasure of being taken round by someone who struck what I consider to be the perfect balance for an art tour: a succinct summary of the art and artist, a few analytical insights without being patronising or over-explaining, and unfiltered personal commentary that let us know what our guide truly thought and felt about each work.
What I found confusing, however, is that each of the Bunker exhibitions have lasted four years. That’s a long time to keep work on display, especially when the Boros collection is approaching 1,000 works in total. Some of the installs I saw were elaborate enough to warrant an extended display, but most of the works could have easily been rotated in and out of storage without much effort. It feels like a missed opportunity to capitalise on the art lovers in Berlin who I suspect would gladly pay to attend a new show annually. I can’t figure out the logic but for tourists like me that probably won’t get back to Berlin any time soon, at least I don’t feel like I’m missing anything.
I am, however, very glad that I went. The curators have done an excellent job making use of a very unique space, seamlessly blending in artworks that might look wildly out of place in a white walled gallery. Alas, the tour has a strict no-photo policy regarding the artwork so my review only has photos of the building, but the full list of artists, and plenty of imagery, is available on the website. Whether or not you’re a fan of contemporary art, if you have plans to be in Berlin this is one guided tour you simply don’t want to miss.
Plan your visit
Tickets from €18 adult / Discounts available
Visit boros-collection.com for more info about the venue and to book a tour.
For additional info: Meet the Collectors (6 min video)
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